Friday, November 20, 2020

Can a furniture maker double as a builder?

A good furniture maker will have many of the skills needed to build homes or other structures.

Several furniture makers I know of have built their own homes or shops.

  • But there are many aspects of building construction that they have to learn on the fly (or subcontract out to others with more knowledge and skill.)

 

Furniture makers are not qualified to be professional builders, working as independent contractors.

  • Aside from lacking some basic skills, they will not have required licenses or be aware of local building codes and regulations.

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Thursday, November 19, 2020

What is the coolest furniture you’ve come across?

Coolest furniture ever!
An amazing combination of antique craftsmanship, art and magic… David Roentgens’ Berlin Secretary Cabinet!
To truly appreciate this piece you need to see the 2 minute video.

Abraham Roentgen’s Writing Desk

Abraham and David Roentgen built amazing pieces for European royalty during the 18th century.

Their furniture featured amazing hidden storage and mechanisms
Rolltop Desk by David Roentgen: Demonstration

In 2012 the Metropolitan Museum of Art discovered a particular type of Roentgen table with removable legs for easier transport.

That table is now considered the earliest form of flatpack (Ready to Assemble) furniture.
Conventional wisdom is that RTA furniture was invented by Gillis Lundgren in 1951 for IKEA.

Now its origins have been traced back 200 years earlier by David Roentgen.

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Wednesday, November 18, 2020

Should end tables be shorter than couch?

Your question does not specify whether “shorter” refers to the depth of the end tables or to the height. I will answer both.

End tables are never as deep as the couch. They are taller than the seat height, but lower than the arm height.

Below are some general guidelines regarding how occasional tables are sized:

A basic set of occasional tables typically consists of a coffee table (also known as cocktail table) and end tables.

  • If the coffee table is rectangular the end tables will also be rectangular.
  • If the coffee table is round or oval, the end tables will also be round or oval.

Occasional table sets may have additional pieces.

Some occasional table sets have two different end table sizes, with the larger end table referred to as a “lamp table.”)

  • Lamp tables are typically wider than the matching end tables.
    • They are often square in shape, rather than rectangular.
    • Lamp tables are less commonly found in table sets with rounded shapes.
  • Sofa tables are longer and narrower than end or lamp tables. Sofa tables are also higher. They are usually placed behind the sofas.

Table dimensions:

  • End tables are typically rectangular or rounded. When they are rectangular, the width will be less than the depth.
  • End table depths (or diameters) generally range from 22″ – 24,″ (although there are exceptions above and below this range.)
    • End table widths are typically a few inches less than the table depth.
  • Larger end tables, commonly referred to as “lamp tables,” can be found in some table sets.
    • Lamp tables will have the same depth as the end tables but will be a few inches wider.
    • In many cases lamp tables will be have square shapes (width and depth are the same.)
  • Smaller end tables are sometimes called “chairside tables.”
    • Chairside tables will also have the same depth as the other end tables in the set, but may be several inches less in width.
  • Sofa tables are typically about 6″ less deep than their matching end tables. Widths can vary from 48″ – 60″ or more.

End tables depths are usually at least 12″ less than the sofa depth.

  • Sofa depths generally range from 36″ – 42″. It is possible to find couches with overall depths as small as 32″.

Table heights:

  • Coffee (or cocktail) tables are usually found in heights ranging from 16″ – 18″.
    • The coffee table’s height should make them easy to reach when seated on the couch.
  • End and lamp tables are usually several inches higher. The most common heights are 21″ – 24″.
    • End tables are accessed by reaching over the sofa arm. The additional height is needed to make this practical for most people.
    • End tables should be lower than the height of the sofa’s arms.
  • Sofa tables are taller than the other tables. The top surface is usually slightly below the height of the sofa back.

Liberty Furniture Lake House 3-Piece Coffee Table Set, Oak

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Tuesday, November 17, 2020

What size end tables will fit my sofa?

A customer recently asked, “Should end tables be shorter than the couch?”

This question did not specify whether “shorter” referred to the depth of the end tables or to the height, so I will answer both.End tables are never as deep as the couch. They are taller than the seat height, but lower than the arm height.

Below are some general guidelines regarding how occasional tables are sized:

A basic set of occasional tables consists of a coffee table (also known as cocktail table)and end tables.

  • If the coffee table is rectangular the end tables will also be rectangular.
  • If the coffee table is round or oval, the end tables will also be round or oval.

Occasional table sets may have additional pieces.

Some occasional table sets have two different end table sizes, with the larger end table referred to as a “lamp table.”)

  • Lamp tables are typically wider than the matching end tables.
  • They are often square in shape, rather than rectangular.
    • Lamp tables are less commonly found in table sets with rounded shapes.
  • Sofa tables are longer and narrower than end or lamp tables. They are also higher. Sofa tables are usually placed behind the sofas.

Table dimensions:

End tables are typically rectangular or rounded.

  • When they are rectangular, the width will be less than the depth.
  • End table depths (or diameters) generally range from 22″ – 24,″ (although there are exceptions above and below this range.)
  • End table widths are typically a few inches less than the table depth.
  • Larger end tables, commonly referred to as “lamp tables,” can be found in some table sets.
    • Lamp tables will have the same depth as the end tables but will be a few inches wider.
    • In many cases lamp tables will be have square shapes (width and depth are the same.)
  • Smaller end tables are sometimes called “chairside tables.”
    • Chairside tables will also have the same depth as the other end tables in the set, but may be several inches less in width.
  • Sofa tables are typically about 6″ less deep than their matching end tables. Widths can vary from 48″ – 60″ or more.

End tables depths are usually at least 12″ less than the sofa depth.

Sofa depths generally range from 36″ – 42″. It is possible to find couches with overall depths as small as 32″.

Table heights:

  • Coffee (or cocktail) tables are usually found in heights ranging from 16″ – 18″.
  • The coffee table’s height should make them easy to reach when seated on the couch.
  • End and lamp tables are usually several inches higher. The most common heights are 21″ – 24″.
    • End tables are accessed by reaching over the sofa arm. The additional height is needed to make this practical for most people.
    • End tables should be lower than the height of the sofa’s arms.
  • Sofa tables are taller than the other tables. The top surface is usually slightly below the height of the sofa back.

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Monday, November 16, 2020

Is It Popular To Buy White or Cream-Colored Fabric For Your Couch?

White, off-white and cream colored fabrics have become increasingly popular over the past 5 years.

Stain resistant white and off-white “high performance” fabrics can now be found everywhere. They are available in a huge assortment of textures, shades and patterns.

White and off-white colors can be matched with practically any other color scheme within a room. Despite their versatility, many furniture purchasers avoid whites.
Dirt and stains are easily visible on white toned fabrics. Cotton and linen fabrics are difficult to clean. Many types of stains cannot be removed, even with professional cleaning. Polyesters (including microfibers) are more stain resistant, but could become discolored by dirt.

“High performance” fabrics have built-in, permanent and effective stain protection. Even for white and off-white colors.

There are several different “high performance” fabric technologies currently available. Brand names include Crypton, Sunbrella, Revolution, Bella-Dura, LiveSmart and several others.

  • Cryptons are primarily 100% polyesters and polyester blends, available in a wide price range
  • They offer extensive fabric lines, consisting of thousands of different high performance fabrics.
  • Crypton fabrics are available in a huge range of different textures, colors and patterns
  • They can mimic cottons, linens, silks, wools, velvets and other fibers in both light and heavy weights, with both rough and smooth textures
  • Crypton also licenses its high performance technology to other mills, including Valdese Weavers.
  • Sunbrella fabrics are 100% acrylic. These have been primarily outdoor fabrics until fairly recently.
  • Sunbrella high performance fabrics are available in a wide range of colors and patterns. The line is very popular with interior designers.
  • The acrylic fibers used in Sunbrella are sometimes not as durable as the polyesters used by Crypton and have lower abrasion test ratings
  • Revolution fabrics are 100% olefin (also known as polypropylene.)
  • Revolution is a generally a “budget priced” high performance fabric line.
  • These have a rougher texture than most of the Cryptons, Sunbrellas and Bella-Duras.
  • Revolution has a far more limited color palette than the other high performance brands. Although there are some patterns, most of the fabrics in the line are solid colors.
  • An advantage of Olefin high performance fabrics is that difficult stains can be cleaned with bleach
  • Most Revolution fabrics have loose weaves. Some compete in pricing with low cost microfibers.
  • Bella-Dura uses the same 100% olefin fibers as Revolution. The denser woven fabrics look and feel very different. They also have substantially higher prices.
  • Bella-Dura olefins are far more durable than the Revolution fabrics. Many meet the 100,000 double rub test level for commercial and institutional use.
  • Bella-Dura textures are more tightly woven and feel smoother than the Revolution fabrics. They have a much wider color palette.
  • Bella-Dura emphasizes brightly colored patterns. The cheaper Revolution fabrics are primarily neutral solid colors.

High performance fabrics were first introduced in the 1990s. At that time they were suitable only for outdoor fabrics.

  • Outdoor high performance fabrics repel water and are virtually stain proof.
  • These outdoor fabrics, but were not suitable for use on indoor, residential furniture.
  • They were stiffer and less comfortable than people preferred for indoor residential furniture.

High performance fabrics for home use, with a “softer feel” took longer to develop.

  • Residential “high performance” fabrics have become widely available only within the past 5 years. They are softer and more comfortable than the outdoor fabrics.

High performance fabrics are currently available in all price ranges.

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Saturday, November 14, 2020

Are there any chairs with 3 legs?

Chairs with three legs are usually called stools.

From a safety standpoint 3 leg stools are usually less sturdy than chairs with 4 legs.

New office chairs with casters (wheels) are required to have 5 legs according to current safety regulations. 4 leg chairs with casters resulted in many tipovers and injuries.

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Friday, November 13, 2020

What’s a recommended process for an independent furniture designer to take their designs from sketch to manufacture to retail?

I have been through this process – twice!

It requires skill, financial resources, contacts, luck and extreme amounts of hard work and perseverance.

Your best chance of success is with custom designs that fill voids in small niche markets with minimal competition.

Lower cost furniture designs, suitable for mass production and widespread retail distribution, are far more difficult, unless you already have established a solid reputation and name recognition.

  • The more commercially successful your design is, the more difficulty you will have protecting it against competitors.
    • If you do not have patent protection they will copy it.
    • If you have patent protection they will simply ignore it or design around it.
      • Individuals and small companies cannot afford patent litigation, no matter how strong their case is. Large companies know that and take advantage.
    • Licensing designs to a larger company comes with its own perils.
      • The more successful your products are, the more incentive your licensee will have to find a reason to stop paying you.

      True story – I was once in an elevator at the International Home Furnishings Market in High Point, North Carolina and overheard a conversation between two sales reps.

      • The reps were discussing an exciting new sofa design that had just been introduced by a competitor.
      • It was still the first day of the market. Already their company had sent a designer into the competitor’s showroom to study the new sofa.
      • The reps were expecting to have a prototype of a similar sofa ready for their showroom within 48 hours.

      25 years ago I put together a team that designed an entire line of unique modular sofas and sleepers. 

      • I was the marketing expert.
        • I started the design project after becoming aware of a major niche market that had no existing competitors.
        • My responsibility was determining what special features and functionality would be needed to create products that would fill this market void.
      • The second team member was the prototype builder.
        • His job was to create actual furniture from a theoretical concept that had never before been tried.
      • A third team member was a professional furniture designer.
        • He fine tuned the styling so that our functional pieces looked attractive to furniture purchasers.
      • Equally important to the success of this project, was excellent patent and legal representation.
        • Getting a patent is not the difficult part.
        • Crafting a patent that is strong enough to defend against companies that try to design around you, requires an extremely high level of skill and experience.
        • Legal expertise with lease agreements and contract negotiations is also critical.

      When we had 20 prototypes ready for presentation, we hired a furniture industry mergers and acquisitions specialist, who had contacts with the top executives of several manufacturers.

      We licensed our designs (and patents) to a major manufacturer.

      • Over $25 million of our furniture was sold over a three year period.
      • In addition to royalties and consulting contracts, the manufacturer also assumed the (substantial) costs for the 5 U.S. patent applications we had filed, in addition to multiple international patents.
      • Before signing the contract, we held out almost six months until the company agreed to pay us a royalty based on sales, rather than profits.
        • That decision was critical. The manufacturer had complete control over how costs were calculated for our product line.
        • They chose to do it in a way that made the product line unprofitable.
        • If we had accepted their original contract proposal, we would have received very little compensation for for our time and effort.
      • Several years later we discovered that the company had also attempted to design around our patents almost immediately. They even filed their own (unsuccessful) patent application less than a year after signing our license agreement.

      Lessons learned from this experience:

      • Design expertise alone was not sufficient. We needed a team with a variety of skills. That team included extremely competent patent and legal assistance.
      • My team worked for over 2 years without pay before launching our designs into the marketplace. We incurred costs of over $50,000.
        • There was a very high probability that our designs would never be commercially successful. (Over 95% of patents do not result in sellable products.)
      • Furniture design is highly competitive and can be extremely frustrating when starting off.
        • Originality is not always appreciated. Your best ideas may be knocked off and copied by others.
      • Education, experience and skills may get you in the door. Long term success requires a genuine passion for what you are doing.

      10 years after the events described above, I put together another team and created another product line.

      • This time we decided to the do the manufacturing (and retailing) ourselves.
      • The resulting company, Simplicity Sofas, has been in business since 2007.

      For those who are interested, here is a description of the furniture concept that resulted from what is described above. High quality sofas, sleepers and sectionals that fit through impossibly narrow doors and stairways (and also last forever.)

      Modular sectional by Simplicity Sofas.

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Thursday, November 12, 2020

Are 4 or 5 Cushion Sofas Better?

I will assume you are asking about straight sofas, not sectionals which are made up of two or more sections joined together.

4 cushion sofas are uncommon. 5 cushion sofas are rarely seen unless custom-built.

  • The minimum width for a comfortable seat cushion is 22″ (most are wider.)
  • When you include arms, that means that a 4 seat sofa will be at least 98″ in length.
  • A 5 seat sofa will be at least 120″ in length.
  • 98″ sofas will not fit through many doors and stairways.
  • 120″ sofas are extremely difficult to deliver and will not fit into many homes.

Usually, when people want upholstered furniture with 4 or 5 seats, they purchase sectionals, which are built in smaller sections and can bend around corners.

4 and 5 seat sectionals are both very popular.

Photo is 7 seat sectional and bumper ottoman by Simplicity Sofas

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Wednesday, November 11, 2020

Are sofa tables out of style?

Sofa tables were never particularly “in style.”

I was a buyer for a $50 million furniture retailer in the 1970s and 1980s.

  • The rule of thumb for buying a new grouping of occasional tables was that:
    • For each 20 coffee tables we would purchase 30 end tables and 6 sofa tables. (3 of the sofa tables were used for floor samples in the three stores, leaving only 3 in stock.)
    • When the time came to reorder coffee and end tables, we usually did not need to order additional sofa tables.
    • The sofa tables were almost always the last pieces left when we discontinued a grouping.
  • Despite the slow sales rate, we always showed sofa tables with each group because they helped sell the other pieces.

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Tuesday, November 10, 2020

What Material Do You Prefer For Your Couches and Chairs?

High quality top and full grain leathers are unbeatable for comfort and durability.

  • If you can afford the high cost and
  • If you are willing to put in the time and effort necessary to clean and maintain the leather on a regular basis.

Unfortunately most leathers actually sold are:

  • Top grain “corrected” leathers, which have an artificial texture and grain pattern engraved into a low quality heavily dyed hide.
  • Problematic leather match (a combination of low quality corrected leathers and synthetic faux leathers.)
  • Horrendous bonded leathers which should not be purchased by anybody.

Microfiber fabrics have been used on furniture for several decades now. They have many advantages including:

  • High durability
  • Excellent stain resistance
  • Low cost

The problem with the microfiber fabrics is that there is relatively little variation in texture, look and feel.

  • Most microfibers have either a velvet or suede texture.
  • They cannot be used for intricate patterns or multiple colors.
  • Microfibers are always solid, plain single color fabrics.

More recently, there has been a new development in fabric technology. This is the emergence of “high performance” fabrics.

  • High Performance fabrics are growing rapidly in the marketplace and are rapidly overtaking microfibers as the #1 type of fabric found in upholstered furniture.
    • HP fabrics are now used by upholstered furniture manufacturers at all quality levels.

High performance fabrics started as a highly stain resistant fabric alternative for outdoor use (Sunbrella) and heavy duty commercial or institutional use (Crypton.)

  • Initially, these high performance fabrics were considerably more expensive than the microfibers.

Over the past few years several different mills have brought out lower cost residential grade high performance fabrics.

  • Although these are not quite as stain resistant as the outdoor or institutional versions, the residential versions do equal or exceed the stain resistance of the microfibers.
    • Residential HP fabrics are also softer and less stiff than the commercial versions.
  • High performance fabrics are now available in an almost unlimited variety of textures, colors and patterns.
  • They are also available in a wide range of prices.
    • At the lower end, STI’s Revolution and Culp’s LiveSmart lines compete directly against the low cost microfibers.
    • At the upper end, Crypton, Sunbrella, Bella-Dura and others compete for the designer fabric trade.

High performance fabrics are made using a wide variety of different fibers and technologies.

  • Crypton’s HP fabrics are primarily polyesters and polyester blends. Culp’s lower cost LiveSmart line is also a polyester blend.
  • Low cost Revolution HP fabrics by STI and high end Bella-Dura HP fabrics are both made using polypropylene (olefin) fibers.
  • Sunbrella’s HP fabrics are acrylic based.
  • There are other high performance fabric brands also available.

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Comprehensive Furniture Glossary

Furniture Terms and Descriptions

Furniture Glossary

Acrylic: Synthetic polymer fiber made from natural materials, such as coal, air water, petroleum and limestone. Fibers are strong, durable and resistant to strong sunlight. They make soft, bulky, wool-like fabrics and carpets.

Apron: Decorative panel that connects the surface or legs of a table or chairs.

Armchair: Chair with side structures to support arms or elbows.

Armoire: Large movable cupboard with doors and shelves that is typically used to store clothing or used as an entertainment center.

Arm Pad: Upholstered part of wooden arms of chair, serving as armrests.

Arm Rail: Curved horizontal part of a chair, continuous across back and arms.

Attached Back: In upholstered furniture, a back cushion that cannot be removed.

Back Rail: The wood frame section which supports the back springs and/or cushioning material.

Backing: A coating material used on the reverse side of the upholstery fabric or cover to give it more strength.

Baker’s Rack: Tiered open, slatted back shelving unit used for storing utensils or other kitchen amenities.

Ball and Claw: A furniture foot resembling a bird or animal claw grasping a ball.

Barrel Back: Upholstered chair or sofa with arms and back forming a continuous curve.

Barrel Chair: Chair type that is named after chairs that were originally made from half a wine barrel.

Base Rail: Wood trim at bottom edge and above legs of chair or sofa. Also wood trim at bottom edge of dresser, chest, or other piece, directly above legs or flush to floor.

Baseball Stitching: A double row of sewing which runs along both sides of a seam. It is used for a decorative effect but also strengthens the seam.

Basket-Weave: A simple plain flat fabric which gives the appearance of a woven basket.

Batting: Padding used to wrap springs or foam slabs before stuffing them into cushions. Quilted polyester often is used.

Bentwood: Wood steamed and bent to form structural members of chairs, etc. First developed in the early 19th century and popularized in the 20th century.

Bias-cut: Cut from one corner of a fabric to the opposite, diagonal corner. Checks are often bias-cut to tweak their personality. Some fabrics will drape differently when cut on the bias, and this treatment can require substantially more yardage.

Block-front: Technical method of constructing the fronts of case furniture, such as chests or cabinets. Featuring three flattened curves, the concave flanked by convex. Developed in America, especially in New England in the 18th century.

Bombe: Marked by convex or bulging lines, descriptive particularly of Rococo case furniture with outward-swelling front and sides.

Bonded leather: Pieces of leather combined with non-leather material to create a cost-efficient upholstery option.

Box-edged: Square seat front with welting or sewn seam on top and bottom.

Box-Pleat: In upholstery, a fold of fabric to the left, followed by a fold to the right, stitched in place.

Boxspring: Foundation for a mattress.

Brace Block: Piece of wood or metal fitted into an angle of a piece of furniture to add strength or rigidity, as at corners under a table top or between a leg and a seat of a chair.

Brocade: Rich jacquard-woven fabric with interwoven design of raised patterns. It has an embossed appearance, sometimes with contrasting surfaces, colors, gold or silver threads.

Buffet: The base of a China Cabinet that supports the hutch and is often used as a place for storing dishes.

Bun Feet: Bottom of leg with rounded feet.

Burl: Knot in wood grain surface. Sometimes creates a decorative pattern or swirl.

Burnishing: Wood that has been singed or burned in certain areas and then stained over the burned part.

Butt Joint: Type of joint where wood ends meet perpendicularly at right angles without overlapping or notching.

Butterfly leaf: The leaf of a table with a center section folds and stacks to slide under the table. It’s named for appearing to have wings like a butterfly when it opens.

Button-Tufting: The use of buttons to decorate or accentuate tufting.

Cabriole: A double-curved furniture leg that flares outward at the top (knee), inward near the foot (ankle), and swings out again at the foot.

Camelback: An eighteenth-century style distinguished by a curve along its back resembling a hump.

Cane: Rattan and other reed-like plants split into thin strips and woven for chair seats, backs and side panels; elastic and comfortable. Also used for decorative insets.

Case Goods: A furniture industry term for pieces made of wood (not upholstered), especially those used in the dining room and bedroom.

Chaise: A chaise lounge is an extra long chair that is long enough to support the legs. A chaise sofa is a sofa that includes at least one chaise seat, often seen in L-shaped sofas.

Channel back: A style distinguished by vertical channels stitched into a seat’s back, creating individual compartments.

Chenille: A yarn with short, cut fibers protruding from it, giving a “fuzzy” appearance.

Chesser: A combination of a dresser and a chest.

Chesterfield: Large, overstuffed sofa with closed, upholstered arms that are usually rollover arms of same height as back.

Chevron: A repeating line or stripe in the shape of a V or an inverted V. Often called zig zag.

Chintz: Plain-weave cotton fabric with glaze finish giving a soft, lustrous appearance. Usually has printed design.

Club Chair: Low-slung lounge or easy chair with squared back and arm, loose seat cushion. May or may not be skirted. Type of arm may vary with period or style.

Cocktail ottoman: A multipurpose furniture piece that can be used as a footrest or extra table space. Often referred to as a coffee table ottoman.

Coffee Table: Long table most often used in front of a sofa.

Coil Springs: Tapering, cone-shaped, resilient wire springs used in quality construction of upholstered furniture, mattresses and boxsprings (also called cone springs).

Colorway: The range of colors or color combinations available for a specific fabric. The style of a print can change dramatically in different colorways.

Console: Table that is intended to be placed against a wall.

Corner Block: In furniture making, a triangular wood block used for added strength, in concealed structure under table tops, inside cases and at points of stress on upholstered furniture frames.

Cotton: Popular natural fiber that is versatile and makes good upholstery cover. Blends well and lends durability, absorbency, abrasion-resistance and excellent pilling-resistance to other fibers in the mixture. Often blended with rayon, Dacron, or wool.

Credenza: A buffet, sideboard, or bookcase, especially one without legs.

Crowning: Building center of a mound of stuffing higher than its perimeter.

Cushioned back: A style that uses separate or semi-attached cushions. Often have the same number of back and seat cushions, allowing for fabric matching of stripes and plaids.

Dacron: Trademark name for a polyester fiber manufactured by DuPont. A crisp, strong, resilient fiber that combines well with cotton, linen and wool.

Damask: Firm, glossy, patterned fabric with jacquard weave in one or two-color design. Similar to brocade, but fatter.

Daybed: A dual purpose piece of furniture that can serve as a seating piece or can be used as a bed.

Deck: The flat platform under an upholstered chair’s seat cushion, usually covered in plain fabric. The deck should be firmly resilient, and you should not be able to feel the springs.

Decking: Fabric used as substitute for expensive covering under cushions or other platforms hidden from view.

Dentil Moldin: Ornamental cornice molding consisting of rectangular blocks spaced at regular intervals resembling teeth.

Distressing: Wood finish that gives furniture the appearance that it has aged and looks like an antique. Also applies to leather, see antiqued.

Divided Back: The back of a sofa is given the look of detachable pillows or cushions.

Double Welt: Two parallel cords wrapped in fabric and used to trim upholstery seams and places where fabric meets exposed wood.

Dovetail: Woodworking joint in which fan-shaped tongues projecting from one member fit into corresponding fan-shaped slots cut in second member.

Dowel: Round wooden pin, peg or rod fitted into holes in two pieces of wood to strengthen joints.

Down: Soft, fluffy feathers from very young birds, or from under ordinary feathers of older birds or fowl. Used for stuffing pillows, cushions and upholstered chair backs.

Down-blend: A mixture of waterfowl feathers, down and polyester fibers. Waterfowl (goose, duck) feathers are used because the quills are curved and provide a springy, buoyant feel. Polyester fibers are mixed with the feathers to give extra resiliency.

Drop-in machine-tied springs: A pre-assembled, machine-made coil system designed to simulate the hand-tied version. It drops into the frame and is typically fastened at the corners.

Drop Leaf Table: Extension leaves that are built with hinges which can be lowered when not in use.

Edge roll: Thick jute cord wrapped in burlap. Used to soften frame and spring edges.

Edge Wire: Spring-based decks are surrounded by this single, stiff wire, to which outer springs are attached.

Eight-way hand-tied springs: A series of coil springs. Each is tied eight times. This is the most comfortable (and expensive) seat foundation available.

Embossing: Creating a 3-dimensional design or pattern on paper or on a surface of wood.

Engineered Wood: A man-made substitute for hardwoods. Also known as medium density fiberboard (MDF).

Etagere: A decorative piece of storage furniture with open shelves.

Fiberfill: Soft, synthetic material used as cushioning in upholstered furniture, bedding and comforters. Usually wrapped around foam for upholstery.

Finial: Knob, often vase-shaped, used as crowning ornament on furniture. Also found at the intersection of stretchers joining legs of chairs, tables, etc.

Finish: Any enhancing effect applied to leather after it has been tanned. Examples are dyeing, embossing, buffing, antiquing, waxing, waterproofing, and so on.

Flare: The outward curving or slant on a furniture leg or arm.

Fleur De Lis: A design that consists of three leaves or petals and the middle petal stands taller than the other two.

Fluted: Grooves in a post or leg of furniture that typically is carved to the foot.

Footrest: The lower bracket on a bar stool that acts as a resting spot for feet and is often covered with metal or brass for extra reinforcement.

Frame: Basic structure or skeleton of an upholstered sofa or chair. Kiln-dried hardwood is best for durability in wooden frames.

Futon: A piece of furniture that has dual purpose; can be a couch or transform into a bed.

Game Table: One side of the table is used for dining while the other side is used as a surface for playing games.

Gimp: Ornamental braid used to cover upholstery tacks that attach the fabric to the exposed wood.

Glides: Buttons of plastic or metal applied to bottom of legs to make furniture easier to move around.

Grain: The natural pattern or design of the wood. All woods have unique grains that can be artistic. Also, a word used to describe the natural characteristics of an unprocessed hide, such as its pores, wrinkles, markings, and texture.

Hand: Touch or feel of a fabric to the hand; its tactile qualities including softness, resilience, firmness and delicacy.

Hand-Rub: Process of using cloth, pad or felt with rottenstone or pumice and oil to smooth top coat wood finish by hand.

Hand-Tied: In upholstery construction, the process by which single-coil springs are hand-tied to each other and the frame to control seat elasticity. The more ways the spring is tied, the higher construction quality. 8 way hand-tie has been a staple of high quality upholstery construction for 150 years.

Hand Distressing: A technique that is hand applied to make furniture appear as though it is worn or aged.

Hardwoods: Wood that comes from deciduous trees. Furniture created with hardwoods are higher in density and therefore are usually more durable.

Hutch: The upper enclosed part of a multiple tiered structure. Typically this area has glass doors and is used for displaying china.

Inlay: When two different types of wood are laid to form a two-dimensional effect.

Intarsia: Italian term describing inlay or marquetry.

Interlining: The fabric sewn between the inner foundation covering and the outer upholstery. It stabilizes lighter-weight upholstery fabrics and improves wear.

Klik Klak: Similar to a futon, a klik klak converts from a sofa to a bed – perfect for small spaces.

Knockoff: Expression used within the furniture industry to refer to an obvious copy of a popular design that has been reproduced for sale at a lower price than the quality original.

Lacquer: A protective, clear top coat of finish applied to furniture.

Ladder-Back: Back of chair that has horizontal cross bars that connect the two vertical posts thus forming a ladder effect.

Laminated: Process of taking two or more sheets of wood and gluing them together with the grains going in the opposite direction. This produces a material that is lighter and thinner than solid wood.

Lawson: Simple, straight-back seating piece with rollover arms usually positioned midway between seat and top. Usually skirted.

Loose-Pillow-Back: A pillow treatment that can be removed and not sewn into the furniture.

Loveseat: Smaller version of a sofa typically with two cushions.

Marble: Marble is a very durable stone derived from Limestone and is often used as an accent on bars and tables.

Marquetry: Decorative veneer of wood or other materials, cut into delicate patterns and applied to furniture for decorative effect.

MDF: Medium Density Fiberboard: A type of hardboard that consists of wood fibers that have been glued under heat and pressure.

Microfiber: A very thin man-made fiber (less than one denier.) It is lightweight but very strong and highly stain resistant. One drawback is that it can be used for solid color and plain fabrics only.

Modular Seating: Upholstered seating units that can be rearranged to form different types of seating configurations.

Miter-Joint: Corner joint of moldings framing a panel; each edge of the joint at a 45 degree angle.

Mortise: Opening into which projecting tenon is fitted to join two pieces of wood (mortise-and-tenon joint).

Nail Head Trim: Decorative head nails or a simulated nail head strip used to accentuate a style, usually used on arms and rails.

Nap: Describes the soft, “fuzzy” effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing.

Natural Grain: A leather that displays its original grain.

Nesting Tables: A set of occasional tables that can slide one under the other to “nest” into one spot.

Nylon: Generic name for a very strong synthetic fiber. One of the most durable fibers used for furniture fabrics.

Occasional Furniture: Industry term applied to small furniture items such as cocktail tables, end tables, night stands and pull-up chairs.

Ogee Molding: Molding of double curvature, concave below and convex above.

Open Stock: Furniture regularly kept in stock and often available for quick delivery. Does not include custom-made or specially finished furniture.

Olefin: Synthetic fiber (also known as polypropylene) found in high performance fabrics. Olefin has a high natural stain resistance and is bleach cleanable.

Ottoman: Footstool or the footrest attached to a reclining chair.

Ormolu: Term used to describe decorative objects and furniture mounts of cast and gilt bronze or brass.

Parquetry: A form of veneer creating a geometric pattern.

Parsons Chair: Usually refers to a chair or stool that is skirted.

Particle Board: Engineered wood product that consists of chips of wood coated with glue and pressed together under heat.

Patina: The aura or luster that develops in a quality piece of leather with age.

Pattern match: The layout of fabric pieces so that pattern flows unbroken across seams and cushions. Done well, seams will be nearly invisible. Large-scale patterns may require substantially more yardage.

Pedestal Table: A type of table that is supported by a single, central pedestal with legs that extend to support its weight.

Pillow Top: Refers to a mattress, chair or bar stool that has an extra layer of cushion for added comfort.

Plaid: A pattern of crossed horizontal and vertical lines that form squares.

Polyester: Versatile synthetic fiber used in a wide range of fabrics that can mimic the look and feel of cotton, linen, wool, silk and other materials. 100% polyesters and polyester blends are available in a wide range of prices.

Polyfoam: Synthetic resin simulating latex foam rubber. Used for upholstered furniture, pillows and mattresses. Also called polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane: Man-made synthetic foam used for filling and for cushions. Rigid polyurethane can also reproduce wood trim or make entire frames. The most common material currently used for cushion cores.

Pub Table: Table top that typically measures higher than 36″ and is taller than a dining table.

Rail: Horizontal slats in the back of chairs or bar stools.

Railroaded: Fabric that runs horizontally along the width of a piece of furniture and from front to back along the arms.

Rattan: A type of furniture that is constructed with natural climbing palms that come from tropical Asia.

Rayon: A man-made cellulose fiber. Dyes well with high luster. Works well in dense pile or closely woven fabrics. Usually used in a blend with other fibers. Also known as Viscose.

Repeat: One complete cycle of a pattern in a fabric or wallpaper. A textile with a large repeat will require substantially more yardage to upholster a piece than a solid fabric, particularly when applied to a sofa.

Rolled Arms: Arms that flare out, then down, returning to meet sides of chair or sofa, appearing to have been rolled.

RTA: Ready to Assemble.

Saddle Seat: A style of wood seat that is carved and contoured.

Satin: A tightly woven, high luster flat-weave fabric.

Scalloped: This refers to a decorative edge on a dining or pub table.

Scatter back: Also known as multi-pillow back. This style has more back pillows than seat pillows. The randomly tossed pillows across the back create a more casual look. These sofas tend to sit softly and are often deeper than other designs.

Sectional: A sofa with several separate seat units. Usually it will have one or more corner units.

Self-Decking: In upholstered furniture, using cover fabric to cover area under loose cushions. Also called self-covered deck.

Selvage: Tightly woven edges that prevent fabric from fraying on the roll. The selvage must be cut away for many fabrics to drape smoothly.

Serpentine: Profile made up of convex curve flanked by two concave curves.

Settee: A large bench or seat with back and arms that seats two or more people.

Side Chair: A chair without arms.

Sinuous wire: Also known as “no-sag.” A spring system that uses S-shaped steel components fastened from front to back on the frame.

Skirt: A strip of fabric which carries the sofa or chair design down to the floor and hides legs or casters. A skirt is sometimes also called a flounce. It can be gathered or pleated.

Slat Back: A type of chair back that resembles a ladder with two or more horizontal slats.

Sleigh Bed: A style of bed that resembles the old sleigh front with large scroll-like footboard and headboard.

Spindle Back: Refers to a style of chair that has spindles placed vertically in the back to form both an artist design and provide support for the chair.

Splat Back: Vertical piece between the uprights of a chair back. Often shaped.

Suede: Split leather that has been buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy surface feel.

Swatch: A sample of upholstery fabric, often shown with other pieces, in what is called a Swatch Book.

Swivel Chair: A chair that is able to turn back and forth on its base in a 360° motion.

Tambour Front: Roll front or shutter made of narrow strips of wood glued to a flexible backing. Used on desks and cabinets.

Tapered Leg: A type of leg that decreases in diameter towards the bottom.

Tempered Glass: Very durable glass that shatters into small squares when broken.

Tight-back: Having no loose or semi-attached back cushions. This style of upholstery looks tailored but can be less comfortable for lounging and is harder to clean than loose cushions.

Tight Seat: In upholstery, a fully upholstered seat or back designed not to have a cushion.

Top Grain: Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather.

Trim: A decorative design applied to the outside of furniture. It could appear on arms, back or base. It can be made of wood, metal or plastic.

Tufted back: A style distinguished by upholstery that is tied down with a button, producing folds and patterns.

Tufting: The process of drawing a cord through a deep cushion giving high puffs of padding and small low valleys where the cord is drawn. Names are given to tufting describing the shape of the tuft such as “diamond,” “biscuit,” or “square.” Buttons are often attached to cords to highlight the tufting design.

Tuxedo: A style in which the arms are the same height as the back.

Two-tone: An effect created by applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Sauvaged leathers are examples of two-tone leathers.

Upholstery: The fixed, soft coverings for furniture, especially seating and reclining furniture.

Up the roll: Applied to furniture with the pattern or pile running vertically and the fabric cut on the straight grain. The opposite is railroading, in which the fabric is run sideways.

Veneer: Thin layers of wood glued together to the surface of underlying wood solids or particleboard.

Vertically run: Fabric that runs vertically, bottom to top, over furniture’s front, back and arms.

Viscose: A semi-synthetic fiber, also known as rayon, made from trees to manufacture upholstery, bedding and carpets.

Wall recliner: A recliner that can sit closer to the wall because as it reclines, the chair moves forward away from the wall.

Wardrobe: Cupboard or large cabinet used for hanging clothes.

Warp: The threads that run vertically in a length of fabric. Looms are strung with warp threads that are interwoven with weft threads.

Weave: The manner in which cloth is woven both in terms of tightness and in terms of texture.

Webbing: Straps that are woven together and attached to a seat base and form the foundation & support for bottom of a chair.

Weft: The set of yarns running horizontally to and interlaced with the warp to produce a woven fabric. Also called filling.

Welting: A fabric-covered cord that is sewn into an upholstery seam. Welted edges define the silhouette of a piece of furniture and strengthen the seams. Patterned fabric is typically bias-cut for welting. Smooth welted seams are a sign of quality upholstery.

Welt Cording: A fabric covered cord that is used as a decorative trim piece.

Wing Chair: An upholstered chair that has wings at the sides.

X-Stretcher: Used to connect four legs of a chair or table and provide additional reinforcement to the piece of furniture.

Zig-Zag: Trade name for convoluted or S-shaped Sinuous wire springs. These are commonly used in upholstery furniture instead of coil springs.

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Monday, November 9, 2020

What makes a table a coffee table?

“Coffee” tables are also interchangeably called “cocktail” tables.

  • The primary distinguishing factor is that they are:
    • Larger than end tables.
    • Lower and narrower than sofa tables

    Brookside modern coffee table, end table and sofa table shown above.
    If the end tables are square or rectangular the coffee or cocktail table would be a larger square or rectangle.

    • If the end tables are circular, the coffee or cocktail table would be a larger circular table.

    Coffee tables, matching end tables and sofa tables often have varying heights.

    • Coffee tables are usually around the same height as the top of the seat cushion and slightly lower than the end tables.
      • I have never seen an official explanation for this, but my assumption has always been that the end tables are higher because you need to reach over the sofa arm to pick up items from the table top.
    • Sofa tables are higher than end tables. Typically the top of a sofa table would be just below the top of the sofa back.

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Saturday, November 7, 2020

What Are Standard Sofa Sizes?

The most common sizes for higher quality sofas currently is 78″ – 88″ in length and 37″ – 42″ in depth.

20 years ago sofas of 90″ and more were far more common and there were even some sofas over 100″.

Now, those sizes are pretty much restricted to custom upholsterers. There are simply too many narrow doors and stairways that sofas of 90″ and more won’t fit through.

Over the past few years a new category of smaller sofas (72″ – 78″) has become more popular. These “apartment-size” sofas work well with smaller apartments and retirees who are “down-sizing” after children have grown up and moved away.

Searching for “apartment-size” sofas through Google and other search engines can be frustrating , however. Large companies who may sell very few or no smaller sofas will still advertise “apartment sofas” in an effort to generate as much traffic to their websites as possible.

Lifestyle furniture (such as IKEA) and less expensive fully upholstered furniture tends to be smaller than the higher quality products. Sizes most often range from 72″ – 84″ in length and 34″ – 38″ in depth.

Know someone who might be interested in this post? Please like and share this post with them. If you have questions or comments please leave them below. Shopping for furniture can be complex and frustrating. Salespeople often do not have enough knowledge to answer your questions or give advice based on limited experience. Take this opportunity to get real information and advice before spending hundreds or thousands of dollars.

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Friday, November 6, 2020

How Big Is A 2-Seater Sofa?

The size of a 2 seat sofa usually ranges from 66″ – 88″ (168 cm – 224 cm.)

  • Love seats also have two seats and are generally smaller than two seat sofas.
  • What distinguishes a 2 seat sofa from a love seat is the width of the cushions.
    • If the two seater has cushions that are the same size normally found on a three seat sofa (22″ – 24″ or 56 cm – 61 cm) it is a loveseat.
    • If the cushions are 27″ (69 cm_or wider) it is considered a 2 seat sofa.
    • 2 seaters with cushions between those two ranges may be considered either a love seat or a sofa.

    Shown above: 82″ length Ashton 2 seat sofa by Simplicity Sofas has (2) 30″ wide cushions.

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Thursday, November 5, 2020

Is Box Spring Necessary For Bed That Lays On A Carpeted Floor?

Most “box springs” being sold today are actually foundation platforms. They are plywood boxes with a very thin layer of padding at the top.

The primary purpose of these foundations is to add height to the sleeping surface.

With a good quality mattress that is at least 10 inches thick, the added foundation makes only a slight difference in either the comfort or the lifespan of the mattress.

The combination of a steel bed frame (or siderails connecting a headboard and footboard), a foundation (or box spring) and a mattress, pus the sleeping surface at the height most people prefer.

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Wednesday, November 4, 2020

What’s The Best Way To Find The Right Mattress? Do I Need To Lay On It At The Store?

Mattress shopping can be extremely confusing. The information available from manufacturers and retailers is incomplete and untrustworthy.

Tuck Sleep | Sleep Product Reviews and Health  is an extremely detailed and informative website.

  • This website provides analysis and reviews on 120 different brands.
  • That is just a small part of the website which addresses virtually every aspect of anything associated with sleep.

Website categories include:

This is how Tuck introduces its mattress section:
We’ve gathered and verified the largest set of mattress customer experiences available on the web. Use our in-depth guides to understand what components make up your ideal sleep surface based on your height, weight, body type and sleep preferences, how to find the best price on a mattress, how to get properly dispose of your old mattress and much, much more.

The table of contents for the website includes:

Taking just the first section listed in the table of contents Tuck Mattress Guides and Resource here is a list of the topics covered:

Tuck Mattress Guides and Resources

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Tuesday, November 3, 2020

Furniture Warranties: Tricks, Traps and Warnings

What’s the Purpose of Furniture Warranties?

Furniture warranties have three primary purposes:

Marketing (Creating the “perception of quality” for a brand or product.), legal protection (for retailers and manufacturers) against consumer complaints, and additional profit for retailers.

This article will first give a basic overview of how warranties are used by retailers and manufacturers to avoid costs and increase profits.

At the end of the article is an annotated copy of a Wayfair extended warranty.

A Flexsteel manufacturer’s warranty is also analyzed in detail.

My annotated comments at the end of the article highlight specific terminology used in actual warranties to avoid coverage for most warranty claims.

Warranties are a marketing tool.

Customers want to be told that their furniture is well made and will last a long time.

They want to be told that they will be protected if the furniture is defective or arrives damaged.

The large bold print at the top of the warranty tells customers the things they want to hear.

Very few customers read beyond the big bold broad coverage terms to the smaller print, often scattered in multiple places throughout a long document, that disqualifies almost everything they think is being promised.

Warranties are legal documents

They’re written to protect manufacturers and retailers.

Furniture is fragile. It can be easily damaged in shipping or can “wear out” in just a few years.

Wood furniture shipments often arrive at the retailer’s warehouse with minor damage. Often it is uncartoned, inspected and “touched up” before delivery to your home.

Before picking up cartoned furniture at the retailer’s store or warehouse, have it taken out of the boxes.

Then inspect it carefully. The receipt you sign may certify that you have picked up the furniture in good condition.

If the cartons remain sealed and you do not inspect the furniture until you get home, the retailer may disclaim any responsibility. You signed a legal document stating that you took possession of the furniture in good condition.

Upholstered furniture is more likely to have hidden damage if a heavy piece, especially reclining sofas and sleepers, was dropped or mishandled during shipment or delivery.

Inspect the furniture as soon as you can. There is often a time limit for claiming shipping or delivery damage.

If you have even a small suspicion that something might be wrong, notify the retailer. Do not phone.

Send an email so that you can later show proof of the date when the defect was first discovered.

Aside from damage caused during shipping, most customer complaints and warranty claims concern problems that occur over extended time periods.

Coverage That Doesn’t Cover

Most common types of problems will be excluded from coverage. These include:

Cushion problems: Worn-out, sagging or uncomfortable cushions are all excluded. This includes cushions that have lost their shape or resilience, even after a very short time period.

If you read the preceding paragraph and think to yourself, “That doesn’t apply to me. My warranty says my cushions are covered for life,” keep reading until you get to the detailed analysis of an actual warranty document.

Fabric problems: Exclusions include peeling, pilling, stains, discoloration, open seams and “normal wear and tear.”

Frame and foundation problems: Squeaks, sags and wobbly arms that occur over time will not be covered. Proving that a frame problem is a manufacturer’s defect can be a long and difficult process.

Loose joints on wood case pieces: Unless this is noted when the furniture is brand new, it will be attributed to either “normal wear and tear” or “customer abuse.” Watch out for an incredibly tricky clause that will specify the warranty only covers “accidental” damage. Damage that occurs over extended time periods is excluded.

Mechanism problems: Defective mechanisms are usually covered if the problem occurs during the limited time period specified in the manufacturer’s warranty. Don’t be surprised if the warranty coverage does not include shipping and installation costs. For older or discontinued items, replacement mechanisms may no longer be available.

Manufacturers will cover proven defects in materials or workmanship.

Proving that your furniture has a manufacturing defect can be extremely difficult and frustrating.

You may have to prove that the defect was present when you first purchased the furniture.

Manufacturing defects that do not show up (and are reported) within the first year will probably be excluded under the standard “normal wear and tear” exclusion clause.

Repairing or replacing defective furniture or parts is expensive.

From a retailer’s perspective, customer service issues that require sending inspectors, paying for refunds, replacing parts or exchanging entire pieces are a direct cost against profits.

These costs can be substantial. Retailers do everything possible to avoid them.

Repeated studies have indicated that “price” is by far the most important factor for most people shopping for low and mid-range furniture.

Competitive pressures to lower costs have dramatically restructured the entire furniture industry over the past 20 years.

Where there used to be thousands of small independent retailers, there are now only a handful.

The furniture industry is now dominated by a small number of huge national and regional chains.

According to the May 25, 2020 issue of Furniture Today, the top 100 retailers account for almost 80% of all furniture, bedding and accessory items sold in U.S. furniture stores.

The top 10 largest furniture retail chains account for more than 40% of total U.S. furniture store sales.

The top 14 furniture stores all have annual sales exceeding $1 billion.

These mega-retailers have tremendous power to dictate pricing to the limited number of furniture manufacturers large enough to supply them.

20 years ago it was possible to buy a basic sofa for $399. It is still possible to buy $399 sofas.

Costs of lumber, foam, fabric, transportation and labor have all increased over that time period.

The large furniture retailers have created cut-throat competition among the limited number of manufacturers whose production is large enough to supply them.

In order to sell furniture today at the same prices as 20 years ago, certain quality compromises have been made in mass produced furniture, especially upholstered furniture.

Wood furniture does not have as much of a quality problem as upholstered furniture.

For mass produced wood furniture, advances in automated technology and much larger scale production have increased efficiency for lower priced mass produced products.

Lower cost wood furniture, in many cases, is superior to the quality made 20 years ago when more of the work was done by hand.

Higher quality wood furniture, made by expert craftspeople, does cost more now than it did 20 years ago.

Manufacturers and retailers are well aware of the massive costs they could be exposed to because of lower quality furniture products.

On the other hand, retailers are also aware that popularly priced furniture which needs to be replaced every 5 years is more profitable over the long term than furniture that lasts 10 years or more.

More profitable unless the cost of warranty claims and repairs overwhelms the financial benefits of selling more furniture.

Repairing defective furniture is expensive and disruptive to the normal manufacturing and selling processes. Taking care of warranty claims is neither profitable nor enjoyable for manufacturers and retailers.

Manufacturers have traditionally reacted by structuring warranties so that there are very few potential problems that are actually covered.

Retailers used to follow the same logic, but have recently evolved into a far more profitable solution.

Over the past decade, furniture retailers have transformed warranties from a significant negative cost on their income statements and balance sheets into a highly lucrative profit center.

Introducing the extended warranty.

Extended warranties have been available in the furniture industry since the 1980s, but were not fully weaponized until the past decade.

When purchasing furniture over the past few years, it has become almost impossible not to buy an extended warranty.

>Whether you are purchasing furniture in a store or online, the pressure to add an extended warranty is almost overwhelming.

The basic pitch is that without the extended warranty, you have no recourse for any problems that might occur. With the extended warranty, you have complete protection for almost anything that can possibly go wrong.

The language of the warranty seems to confirm this – all the way up to the point where most people stop reading the warranty document.

If you read the entire warranty document, and understand the legal and furniture industry terminologies, the sad reality is that it offers very little protection for anything that is likely to go wrong.

From the retailer’s viewpoint, the extended warranty is a “win-win” product. They make substantial profits for doing nothing.

The retailer does not stand behind the extended warranty.

Although the retailer receives a substantial portion of the money you paid out, they have no responsibility for servicing claims.

Even better, it completely eliminates all of the costs the retailer used to incur for servicing warranty claims.

Extended warranties transfer responsibility for servicing customer claims to a 3rd party insurance-type company. That 3rd party (which is not a furniture company) is who you contact if you need to make a warranty claim.

This can be confusing to the customer.

Manufacturers’ warranties do not apply if you are covered under an extended warranty.

Extended warranties do not apply if the manufacturer’s warranty is in effect.

It is not unusual for consumers to find themselves bounced from one warranty to the other. Determining who is actually responsible for the warranty coverage is not always obvious.

The company responsible for servicing your extended warranty can only make a profit if the cost of servicing customers is less than the amount they receive.

Manufacturers do not receive any of the money you pay for your extended warranty.

Their warranty costs have to be built in to the low profit margins they make when selling to the retailers. As a result, manufacturers are careful to craft warranties so that they have very little exposure to anything that might result in a significant cost.

Manufacturers do take responsibility for repairing (or replacing) products with provable manufacturing defects.

Proving that a product is “defective” in a way that is covered by the warranty can be quite difficult.

Customers are often responsible for shipping costs. They may also be responsible for labor costs.

The cost of shipping and labor is typically far more than the cost of replacing a damaged part.

The cost of cartoning and shipping large pieces of furniture can be prohibitively expensive.

Even the cost of shipping small items can be surprisingly expensive. For example:

Shipping a set of replacement seat cushions will cost at least $100 and could cost over $200 for individuals without access to special shipping rates.

Retailers earn a sizable profit on your extended warranty.

According to ConsumerAffairs.com this can be 200% or more. About half of this amount will go to the 3rd party actually servicing the warranty.

The other half is pure profit for the retailer.

The 3rd party insurance company servicing the warranty needs to make a profit on only 50% of what you paid.

Keep in mind that if the furniture store thought they could make a profit servicing the warranty for the amount they pay the 3rd party, they would have kept the entire amount you paid and serviced the warranty themselves.

Extended furniture warranties are different

Extended furniture warranties are different from extended warranties for cars, appliances or electronics.

Car companies keep the full amount you pay and do the servicing themselves.

Electronics and appliances have predictable, fixed costs and a very predictable lifespan.

Even with these advantages, most experts who study extended warranties do not recommend them.

From an economic perspective, the cost of an extended warranty for cars, appliances and electronics is rarely worth the cost.

For furniture it is never worth the cost.

The only way for an insurance company to make a profit on an extended furniture warranty is by rejecting as many claims as possible and reducing costs as low as possible.

Eliminating potential claims is the most important factor in making profits.

Extended warranty providers are experts at this.

Extended warranties always include clauses that they do not cover anything covered under another warranty.

This can include denied claims under other warranties.

Example 1: You call the extended warranty company to fix a sofa with a broken (non-removable) leg. They will immediately refer you to the manufacturer’s warranty.

The manufacturer agrees to repair the broken leg, but points out under their warranty you are responsible for all shipping and labor costs after the first year. These costs amount to several hundred dollars.

Because the problem was covered under the manufacturer’s warranty, it is ineligible for the extended warranty coverage.

Example 2: The manufacturer rejects your claim for warranty coverage of the broken leg on the grounds that an inspection indicated “customer abuse,” a term that can be applied for many different reasons.

The extended warranty does not apply for the same reason.

Extended warranties exclude coverage for anything that falls under the jurisdiction of the manufacturer’s warranty.

This applies whether or not the manufacturer accepts or denies the claim.

When you purchase an extended warranty your salesperson will tell you all of the things the warranty covers.

They will never tell you about what the warranty does not cover.

Wayfair’s advertises its extended warranty as covering “accidents, common malfunctions, and product failures from normal use.”

This is further defined as “Coverage for accidents (like stains, rips, burns, and chips) and coverage for common malfunctions (like broken hardware and seam separation).”

Wayfair’s SquareTrade Protection Plan includes a paragraph stating that its coverage includes:

Where the problem occurs as a result of normal use of the Product, as follows: seam separation; broken hardware and pulls; separation of joints and welds; structural defects to frames, cases, seat or back construction; broken hinges, casters, slides, drawer pull/guides or swivels; and damaged mechanical elements.

Taken together, the coverage listed above sounds pretty comprehensive. But that is before any exceptions have been listed.

Here is a list of exceptions taken from Section 8A of the SquareTrade contract. The title of this section is, WHAT IS NOT COVERED. My annotated notes are underlined and in red.

(A) Except as otherwise provided, normal wear and tear;

The term “normal wear and tear” is used to exclude the most common problems that customers are likely to encounter. It includes worn out cushions, loss of foam resiliency, worn out or peeling fabrics and many other problems that customers think are covered.

(B) Any and all pre-existing conditions that occur prior to the Coverage Start Date of this Protection Plan;

(C) Natural flaws or inherent design or manufacturer’s defects;

For upholstery this can exclude frame or foundation problems, fabrics that fall apart and cushions that collapse. For wood products this can exclude: delamination of wood or plastic surfaces, staples that pull out, fasteners that loosen, warpage and many other problems.

(D) Intentional damage;

(E) Lost, stolen or irretrievable items;

(F) Any Product that is fraudulently described or materially misrepresented;

(G) Secondary or collateral damage;

(H) Except as otherwise provided, maintenance, service, repair or replacement necessitated by loss or damage resulting from any cause other than normal use, storage and operation of the Product in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications and owner’s manual;

This is a wonderful clause. Paragraph (A) excluded coverage of damages caused by “normal wear and tear.” Here we are excluding “loss or damage resulting from any cause other than normal use.” The extended warranty will not cover any repairs that you have attempted yourself or had done by other professionals. This includes damage or stains that were not removed by professional cleaning services.

(I) Damage caused by exposure to weather conditions, improper electrical/power supply, improper equipment modifications, add-on products or accessories, attachments or installation or assembly, collision with any other object, vandalism, animal or insect infestation, corrosion, battery leakage, act of nature (any accident caused or produced by any physical cause which cannot be foreseen or prevented, such as storms, perils of the sea, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods and earthquakes) or any other force majeure or peril originating from outside the Product;

Many people who purchase extended warranties often think it will protect them in case of hurricanes, floods etc. It does not.

(J) Damage caused by “accumulation,” including, without limitation, damage from any repeated use or gradual buildup of dirt, dust, oils or similar, such as hair and body oils, perspiration or darkened bodily contact areas;

(K) Damage caused by: any improper care, negligence, neglect, intentional acts, misuse or abuse of the Product; any repair, replacement or handling of the Product other than as recommended or authorized by the manufacturer and/or Us; or any failure to comply with the manufacturer’s warranty;

This clause can exclude coverage for many reasons you may not associate with negligence or abuse. A few of these may include: damage related to smoking, using common fabric protection or cleaning products, damage caused by pets or unsupervised children, and more.

(I) Damage caused by cleaning methods, products or materials;

Damage caused by not cleaning or maintaining the product will be excluded elsewhere.

Paragraphs J through L refer to non-furniture products and have been left off this article.

(M) Defects due to the installation, assembly or hookup of Your Product;

(N) Damage caused by transit, delivery, redelivery, removal or reinstallation of the Product, or the Product being moved between different locations or into or out of storage, including damage caused by packing or unpacking of the Product;

A significant percentage of customer complaints relate to damage related to these causes. They are not covered.

(O) Claims made under any improperly or incorrectly purchased Protection Plan;

(P) Except as otherwise provided, “cosmetic damage,” defined as any damages or changes to the physical appearance of a Product that does not impede or hinder its normal operating function as determined by Us, such as scratches, abrasions, peelings, dents, kinks, changes in color, texture, or finish or similar conditions;

This is important. Many salespeople selling extended warranties (and many marketing materials) will specifically tell you that these damages are covered. They are not.

Paragraphs Q through U refer to non-furniture products and have been left out of this article.

(V) Except as otherwise provided, any product used for heavy commercial, educational, rental or industrial use;

(W) Product(s) with removed or altered serial numbers;

(X) Manufacturer defects or equipment failure which is covered by manufacturer’s warranty, manufacturer’s recall or factory bulletins (regardless of whether or not the manufacturer is doing business as an ongoing enterprise);

It is not unusual for furniture manufacturers to be out of business or have the name sold to to a new owner. Extended warranties do not cover you in that case.

Paragraphs Y and Z refer to non-furniture products and have been left out of this article.

(aa) Items sold in a private sale (e.g. flea market, yard sale, estate sale, Craigslist);

(bb) Any Product that is a demonstration/in-store model, or that is sold “as-is”;

(cc) A Product that is no longer in Your possession;

(dd) Any failure, damage, repairs or loss that is covered under any other protection plan, warranty, service plan or insurance.

Anything covered by your manufacturer’s warranty is excluded from this coverage.

Additional exceptions and exclusions are listed in Section 8C of the extended warranty:

(A) Products made of “X” coded fabric, dry cleaning only fabric, non-colorfast fabric or silk fabric;

(B) Natural flaws, inherent design defects or manufacturer’s defects, including, but not limited to, natural inconsistencies in wood grains, fabrics, coloring or leathers; wood stains; delamination of microfiber; manufacturer’s defects of leather or upholstery;

(C) Stains caused by from incontinence, hair and body oils, perspiration, paints, dyes, bleaches, flooding, rust, fire (including cigarette burns), smoke or other caustic materials as determined by Us;

(D) Damage caused the application of topical treatments to the Product;

This includes fabric protection or cleaning products.

(E) Damage to the Product caused by gum, mold or mildew, fading, color loss, non-stain related discoloration, dust corrosion or similar;

Almost all claims related to fabrics will be disqualified.

(F) Odors, pet or animal damage from teeth, beaks or claws;

(G) Splitting, cracking and/or peeling of A&P leather, bonded leather, bycast leather or coated fabrics;

Peeling bonded leather is such a major problem (and so expensive to repair) that it gets its own exclusionary clause. The other terms used here are sometimes used to describe bonded leathers.

(H) Scratches of any type;

Many salespeople and marketing materials will tell you this is covered.

(I) Loss of resiliency;

This is the number one complaint for upholstered furniture owners. Cushions on popularly priced couches typically wear out within 3 – 5 years. For larger individuals (or especially cheap sofas) they may wear out even faster. This is especially significant for reclining furniture or couches with non-removable seats and backs. When the foam loses resiliency, the furniture becomes uncomfortable (and may look worn out.) Most people buy new furniture rather than pay the cost of replacing worn out foam.

(J) Separation of seams along mattress seam lines.

This is the most common complaint about mattresses that have passed the trial period allowed for free returns.

 

Section 6 of the SquareTrade extended warranty includes still more restrictions:

Depending on the Product and failure circumstances, at Our discretion, We will either:

Repair Your Product (on-site, mail-in or local repair service may be available, in Our discretion);

Replace Your Product with a product of like kind, quality and functionality (replacement products may retail at a lower price than Your original Product); or

Provide a cash settlement or a Gift Card reflecting the replacement cost of a new product of equal features and functionality up to the Coverage Amount.

If We elect to repair Your Product, We will, at Our option,

(1) provide cleaning or repair advice,

(2) mail You a stain removal kit, including products to aid in stain removal,

(3) mail You a parts kit to replace missing or broken parts and/or

(4) arrange for on-site service as described below.

Please note that We cannot guarantee that any such repair or replacement will result in exact matches (such as color matches) with the original Product due to differences in dye lots, natural grains, external conditions or other similar reasons.

Extended warranties have become an important profit center for retailers over the past decade. It has the highest profit margin of any product sold in the store.

Salespeople are instructed to push hard to add these warranties on to every sale. They receive a substantial bonus for each extended warranty sold.

This creates a tremendous incentive for sales personnel to oversell the warranties, exaggerating the benefits and completely ignoring exceptions and exclusions.

Extended warranties are one of the three most common types of complaints cited in furniture reviews. (The other two are worn out cushions and bonded leather.)

Most furniture purchased online or through major retailers are now sold with extended warranties.

In addition to an extended warranty you will also be protected by a manufacturer’s warranty.

The manufacturer’s warranty is designed so that it appears to offer tremendous benefits to furniture purchasers.

An equally important function is to shield the manufacturer from potential service, repair and replacement costs.

Manufacturers have a different perspective than extended warranty companies.

Negative reviews do not affect Extended warranty companies. Complaints are always directed at either the retailer or the manufacturer – never the extended warranty provider.

Manufacturers are more sensitive to negative reviews that can result if their warranty practices appear to be too restrictive.

Although manufacturers also use exceptions and exclusions to limit liability, they also use more subtle strategies.

Here is an example taken from Flexsteel Upholstery:

Upholstered Furniture Limited Warranty Information

Lifetime Limited Warranty

Internal structures:

Springs

Wood frames

Metal bases

Reclining mechanisms

Seat cushion foam

Feathers

Five-Year Limited Warranty

Electrical components

Mechanical components

Sleeper mechanisms

Sleeper mattresses

One-Year Limited Warranty

Finished wood

Plastic components

Metal components

Battery packs

Filling materials

Pillow fiber filling

Upholstery materials*

Reading through this part of the warranty makes it appear that Flexsteel is standing very strongly behind its products.

There’s even a lifetime warranty on important parts, including cushions.

Cushions are a major source of complaints for mid-priced upholstered furniture.

Many customers specifically look for long lasting cushions before purchasing.

Very few people read beyond this part of the warranty. The next part is headed:

Exclusions

The first paragraph states:

“Flexsteel products are not warranted against wear and tear or damage resulting from neglect, abuse, misuse, rental or commercial use, pets, extreme temperatures, exposure to sunlight, chemical treatments, excessive soiling, accidents, or improper storage, care, or cleaning.”

The furniture is not warranted against “wear and tear.” This is usually interpreted by the manufacturer as meaning that any condition resulting from “normal use” is not covered.

This includes the most common complaint for sofa owners – Cushions that look or feel worn out after only a few years.

Cushion replacements are also excluded from warranty coverage by another clause:

“Slight softening and flattening of seat cushion foam and fibers as a result of normal use and aging is not covered under warranty.”

If that is not sufficient, there is another exclusion which states:

“Under normal use and conditions, cushions may lose up to one inch of the original height standard of the cushion foam core within the first year of use.”

If you call with a complaint that the foam core has lost more than one inch, you will run into another obstacle:

The foam is not the only thing inside the cushion. There is also a layer of fiber above and below the foam.

Proving that the loss of height was in the foam core and not caused by compression of the fiber is difficult and not worth the trouble.

Going back up to the top of the document – “seat foam” is listed under the heading of “lifetime warranty.”

This intentionally gives customers the impression that the cushions are so good they will last forever.

On the other hand, when the cushions wear out (a process that is indicated by “softening and flattening”) in the usual 3 – 5 years after “normal use.” they will not be covered.

Flexsteel’s list of exceptions and exclusions is nowhere near as comprehensive as the SquareTrade extended warranty discussed above.

Although Flexsteel takes great care to exclude cushion and foam replacement, it appears that many other important parts do have excellent warranty coverage including frames, springs, recliner mechanisms, etc.

But there is a catch!

Hidden at the end of a paragraph relating to how a claim should be reported there is a small clause.

After the first year of the warranty period, the purchaser is responsible for labor and shipping costs associated with returns and repairs.

Major parts such as frames, springs, mechanisms, etc. are unlikely to break down within the first year, unless they are damaged during the shipping or delivery process.

If the damage occurs during shipping or delivery, Flexsteel is off the hook. Either the shipping company or the retailer will be liable for repair or replacement costs.

If the damage occurs after one year, Flexsteel is also off the hook (mostly.)

The cost to you of shipping large upholstered pieces to and from a manufacturer’s factory, combined with the cost of labor, will be far more than Flexsteel’s cost of replacing the damaged part(s).

At this point, you may turn to your extended warranty, which your salesperson told you “covers everything.” Unfortunately “everything” does not include issues covered under the manufacturer’s warranty.

Since you have the option of shipping your furniture off to the factory, it is still covered under that warranty.

The extended warranty does not apply.

The post Furniture Warranties: Tricks, Traps and Warnings appeared first on The Insider's Guide to Furniture.

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